Turkey / Between Europe and Asia
Istanbul
Two continents, one very long dinner
Best time
April - June, September - October
How long
4-6 days
Best for
City breaks, food, culture
Perfect for
City Break / Food / History / Couples
Why go to Istanbul
Istanbul is not a weekend city, though people try. The historic peninsula alone takes two days, and the parts most visitors remember afterwards, the ferries, the fish sandwiches, the neighbourhoods up the Bosphorus, come after that. Give it four nights minimum.
It is also the most interesting food city in the region and one of the cheapest major cities to eat in. Breakfast in particular is a serious institution and worth building a morning around.
What to do
Take the ferry across the Bosphorus
The cheapest and best sightseeing in the city. Do it at least twice, once at sunset.
See the historic peninsula early
Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the cistern all sit close together. Start at eight to avoid queues.
Have a long Turkish breakfast
In Besiktas or on the Asian side. Plan nothing for two hours afterwards.
Walk Kadikoy on the Asian side
Markets, bars and record shops. Where the city goes out, and much less touristed.
Visit the Grand Bazaar knowingly
Worth seeing once. For actual shopping, the surrounding streets are better and cheaper.
Go to a hammam
Choose one with clear pricing. A proper scrub is a good end to a walking heavy day.
Where to stay
Sultanahmet
Walking distance to the major sights, quiet at night, limited good restaurants. Best for a first short visit.
Karakoy and Galata
Central, lively and well connected by tram and ferry. The best all round base.
Kadikoy
On the Asian side, cheaper and more local, with an easy ferry to everything.
Getting there and around
- Istanbul airport (IST) is large and roughly an hour from the centre by metro or shuttle. Sabiha Gokcen (SAW) serves the Asian side and low cost carriers.
- Turkish Airlines connects almost everywhere, so fares from most cities are competitive.
- Allow real time for the airport transfer, especially at rush hour.
Get an Istanbulkart on arrival and use trams, metro and ferries. Traffic is heavy, so avoid taxis for cross city journeys where a ferry exists.
What it costs
Budget: Excellent. Street food, public transport and guesthouses make a low spend trip very comfortable.
Mid range: Boutique hotel in Galata, dinners out, entry to the main museums and a Bosphorus cruise.
Higher end: Bosphorus front hotels and restored Ottoman mansions, with prices well below Western European equivalents.
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